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Crinolines were sewed as seperate garments to sit underneath the gown and blazer dress' skirts.  They provided volume and structure but as separate garments they provided plenty of movement.

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Horizontal channels were sewn into bagged out skirt panels.  The crinolines were adapted from the same patterns as the main material so as to provide a perfect fit.

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Boning was inserted into the channels, taking care not to cause any tension.  Boning was secured in place by top stitching either side of the open ended zipper.

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Crinolines were cut slightly above the hem of the outer layer, to prevent it being visible.

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Open ended zippers were used for easy access.  The top seam was closed and bound with cotton tape for added stability and to prevent any stretching.

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Toiling stages involved layering the crinolines with the main so as to ensure that the seamlines were aligned.  

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The blazer dress initially had an internal crinoline that was sewn into the main skirt as an extension of the Basque.  This was not carried through to the final as it didn't provide enough movement and caused the garment to be quite rigid.

© 2020 by AVA YEO

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